Boston In My Mind

I grew up 10 miles outside of Boston and lived there while I went to school for my undergraduate and master’s degree. I will always consider it my home, and even after exploring New York, Chicago, Denver, Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles, San Diego, Phoenix, San Antonio, New Orleans, and Miami . . . I still believe Boston is the greatest city in America.

I recently took a trip there (a 3,000 mile journey from SF) and was very excited to do all the Boston things I love. But my plans were ruined when getting into my Dad’s car I felt as if somebody was jabbing a knife into my lower back. Somehow I had either slipped a disc or pinched a nerve in my back, horrid things I hadn’t done in more than 10 years. How did this happen? Maybe it was a lingering effect from the plane ride, or was related to the 10 lbs I’d gained over the last month, or possibly I did something while throwing a football around a few days before . . . who the hell knows. But regardless of the how or why, I found myself in immense pain.

Although it wasn’t all bad. Because of this injury I got to spend more time with my Mom, Dad, Brother, Sister, nephews, brother-in-law and friends. I love them all and I cherish every moment I get with them.

But it still would have been nice to get a couple days/nights in Boston.

I planned on getting to Fenway last Wednesday, but that was the day when my pain was the most intense. Which was most unfortunate because Big Papi hit a walk-off homerun that night. But I did get to watch it from my parents couch, high on Vicodin.

So other than seeing a Red Sox game, what would have I done in Boston? Last year a co-worker (from Italy) was taking a trip there and asked me for some travel advice. I'm sure I would have only done a handful of these things, but here are the tips I wrote for her (aided by a bottle of red wine and the good ole internet):

• The North End is the Italian section of Boston (sort of like North Beach in S.F.), and here you’ll find cobblestone streets, The Old North Church, and Paul Revere’s House. There are also great cafes and restaurants. My favorite place for an espresso is at Café Vittorio (on Hanover Street) and for a canoli is Mike’s Pastries (a few doors down). I have several favorite places to eat there: Monica’s and Villa Francesca (both on Richmond St), Café Florentine (On Hanover), La Famiglia (On Salem), and Pizzeria Regina (on Thatcher). But what I always loved about The North End is that you can just grab a coffee and wander all the side streets and check out the great architecture and the old time Italians sitting on their steps or beach chairs and get a real feeling of what it was like here 50 years ago. http://www.northendboston.com/visting-map.htm

• If you follow the signs to the water you’ll cross over to Columbus Park, which abuts The North End and The Harbor (It’s next to The Marriot Hotel). It’ll give you great views of The Custom House Tower, the downtown skyscrapers, and the sail boats.

• Quincy Market/ Faneiul Hall (just west of The North End) is pretty touristy, but it’s definitely worth a look. There are shops and restaurants and great architecture. And you shouldn’t leave Boston without having a pint of Guinness at an Irish bar, and you can do that at The Black Rose. If you go at night Eugene Byrne might be playing traditional Irish songs. And if you like oysters, The Union Oyster House across from the Market is one of the oldest restaurants in the country. http://www.faneuilhallmarketplace.com/

• Beacon Hill (just up from Quincy Market and Government Center) is the oldest neighborhood and home of The Massachusetts State House. You can take a tour inside or just take a look at the impressive building. Across the street is The Boston Commons and around the corner you’ll find The Granary Burial Ground, which contains the graves of Paul Revere, Samuel Adams, and John Hancock. But make sure you explore the back streets of this neighborhood and get to Louisburg Square. From The State House take a right on Walnut and a left on Mt. Vernon and shortly you’ll be at the grassy square with the wrought iron and stunning mansions.

• The Public Garden (below The Boston Commons between Arlington and Charles Street, seconds away from Louisburg Square) is a place to just relax with a book or people watch. There are also The Swan Boats here and you can take a ride around the small lagoon shaded by Willow Trees. And if you feel like having a quick lunch and eating outside, I recommend going to Café Du Paris (across the park on Arlington) and taking your food back to a bench. I used to do this a lot when I was in college.

• Newbury Street, which begins at The Public Garden, has a lot of upscale boutiques and restaurants. Although I can’t think of any restaurants there I’ve been to, Sonsie (327 Newbury) is supposed to be excellent. http://www.newbury-st.com/ This is in The Back Bay section of town, and from here you can walk over to:

• Copley Square: The enormous glass Hancock Tower is the first thing you’ll notice, but Trinity Church across the street is one of my favorite buildings in Boston (seeing it reflected in the Hancock’s glass is cool). The Public Library is also an amazing piece of architecture. If you have time go inside and check out all the marble and ornamental ceilings, and then grab a book and relax in the peaceful courtyard.

• Up the road on Bolyston St. you’ll see The Prudential Center, the second tallest building in Boston (Hancock is the first). You can go up top to The Observatory, or even better to the cocktail lounge and restaurant (Top Of The Pru) for a drink. From over 1,000 feet up, it’s like looking at a giant map of the city. http://www.prudentialcenter.com/play/skywalk.html From The Prudential Center you can get on The T (Green Line E Train), which is Boston’s subway, and head over to:

• The Museum Of Fine Arts- It’s one of the best museums in this country, and it’s definitely a must see in when you go to Boston. You’ll find work from just about every major artist here (and one of the best collections of Impressionist paintings outside of Paris). But the only downside is the crowds. Down the road a bit is The Gardner Museum, which has wonderful art (including some great pieces by Matisse) with half the people. http://www.gardnermuseum.org/the museum/introduction.asp

• The above is a good two days of activities, and for day three (when you’re tired of walking) you can take a Harbor Cruise, which will give you different and beautiful views of the city. http://www.bostonharborcruises.com/index.html

• If a boat ride is too long you can take a water taxi over to Charlestown Navy Yard. There you can go on board The USS Constitution (America’s oldest battle ship) or follow the red Freedom Trail and walk up to the top of the Bunker Hill Monument (commemorating a famous battle in The Revolution).

• And at sometime you have to take a walk down The Esplanade, which runs along the Charles River and gives you picture postcard views of Boston. People run, ride bikes, or just lie on the grass and look across the river to Cambridge.

• And once you’ve looked across at Cambridge, you should take The T (subway) there. From Park Street Station (Green Line in Boston Commons) you jump on The Red Line to Harvard Square. You can walk through the campus, check out all the funky characters, and you can even buy an Italian or Russian language magazine at the Newsstand right outside of the subway stop. If you’re up for another museum, The Fogg has great art and is rarely crowded. The Brattle Theatre shows revival films and a couple good places to eat are Grendels (89 Winthrop St.) and The Border Café ( 32 Church St.) http://www.harvardsquare.com/
  
  Here are some other useful websites:
  
  Map: http://www.lib.utexas.edu/maps/national_parks/boston_nhp99.pdf
  
  For taking the subway: http://www.mbta.com/schedules_and_maps/
  
  Historical Walks: http://www.thefreedomtrail.org/
  
  Newspapers: http://www.boston.com/ and http://www.thephoenix.com/